Lug Nuts and Locks
10 products
Project KicsProject Kics 12x1.25 R40 Lug Nuts - Neo Chrome (16+4 Locks) KRC13N$246.8113 availableShips in 2 to 7 Days
Project KicsProject Kics 20 PCS (NO LOCKS) Black R40 Iconix W/ Plastic Cap (Black) - 12X1.25 WRIF03KK$245.2810 availableShips in 2 to 7 Days
Project KicsProject Kics Leggdura Racing Shell Type Lug Nut 53mm Open-End Look 16 Pcs + 4 Locks 12X1.25 Red WRL5313R$219.392 availableShips in 2 to 7 Days
32 Pc Tall Black Spline Lug Nut Kit + Key (for 8 Lug Trucks)$100.00Ready to orderShips in 2 to 7 Days
Spline Key$19.99Ready to orderShips in 2 to 7 Days
Black Spline Lug Nut Kit + Key$53.00Ready to orderShips in 2 to 7 Days
Chrome Spline Lug Nut|Bolt Kit + Key$37.00Ready to orderShips in 2 to 7 Days
Black Spline Lug Bolt Kit + Key$53.00Ready to orderShips in 2 to 7 Days
Tall Black Spline Lug Nut Kit + Key (for Trucks)$53.00Ready to orderShips in 2 to 7 Days
Open Ended Lug Nut Kit$32.00Ready to orderShips in 2 to 7 Days
About Lug Nuts and Locks
Aftermarket wheels nearly always want new lugs. Factory nuts on plenty of Hondas, Toyotas and most German cars are a ball seat or a shank, and aftermarket wheels are cut for a sixty degree cone. Put the wrong seat in the wrong wheel and the nut never really clamps, which is how wheels come loose. Every wheel listing on the site names the seat it's cut for.
Thread pitch comes from the car, the seat comes from the wheel, and the drive style comes from the lug hole. A wheel with a deep narrow hole wants a slim spline drive or a tuner nut with its own key. Open ended lugs suit extended studs and closed ones keep the stud clean, so it's worth knowing which you've got. A lock swaps one nut per wheel for a keyed one, so photograph the key code before it goes in the glovebox.
Torque matters as much as the nut you've picked. Aluminum lugs look great and round off the second an impact gun touches them, so use a torque wrench and the spec on the listing. Steel and chromoly take the abuse. Retorque after the first drive on any new wheel, because the seat beds in. Packages that ship mounted and balanced leave here with the lugs already on.
- By brand
- Project Kics3
- By make
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Common questions
- What lug nuts do I need
- The thread pitch your car uses, the seat your wheel uses, and a drive that clears the lug hole. Save your car and these listings filter to the right thread. The wheel page names the seat, which on almost every aftermarket wheel is conical. Narrow lug hole? Pick a spline drive or a tuner nut and keep the key in the car, not on a bench where you'll forget it.
- Are aluminum lug nuts safe
- On a street car torqued by hand, yes. Aluminum is softer than steel, so an impact gun rounds the corners and too much torque strips the thread. They also corrode against a steel stud in a salt state if you never take them off. Steel or chromoly is the answer for a car that's seeing track days and tire shop guns.
- Conical or ball seat
- It's the shape of the surface doing the clamping. A conical seat is a sixty degree cone and it's what nearly every aftermarket wheel is cut for. A ball seat is a rounded radius, and that's what a lot of Honda and Toyota factory wheels use, along with the German ones. Mixing them puts the nut on a ring instead of a surface, and it works loose.
- Do I need wheel locks
- If the car sleeps on the street, yes. A lock swaps one nut per wheel for one that wants a keyed socket, which stops the easy theft cold. It won't stop somebody determined. Keep the key in the car, write the code from the box down somewhere, and tell the tire shop where the key is before they start.