How we check fitment

"Should fit" isn't a fitment method. We've been putting a tape measure on cars for over twenty years, and every recommendation on this site runs on that. Every fitment we recommend comes off a stock car somebody here checked with a tape measure, a feeler gauge and a brake caliper impression.

What does flush actually mean?

Most people want the wheel flush: the face sitting near or at the fender line without going past it. Robert's working definition is 7mm to 0mm inset from the fender line. Poke, where the wheel sits past the fender, is a look some builds want on purpose, and we treat it as a choice you make rather than a default.

What do we measure?

• Wheel face to fender line, front and rear, on the stock wheel. That sets how far out a wheel can go before it pokes.
• Back of the wheel to the closest suspension or body part, with a feeler gauge. That sets how far in a wheel can go, and almost nobody else checks it.
• Tire to bumper and tire to fender at full lock, which we call the turning radius measurement. That sets the tallest tire the front can run.
• Brake caliper and hub impressions: how far the caliper sticks out past the hub, how tall it is, how far the hub sticks out, how tall the hub lip is. That's where most "should fit" wheels fail.

Why is a lower offset never free?

For every inch you move a wheel outward, the tire loses about half an inch of gap to the body. So a lower offset always costs you somewhere. The site does that math for you, so you don't have to.

What does the site do with all that?

Pick your car once. After that every wheel gets checked against your bolt pattern, hub bore and brake clearance, front and rear, square and staggered, and you only see what fits. Anything we haven't got to yet says so, and we check those by hand before they ship. The fitment guarantee spells out what we promise.