How we check fitment

"Should fit" is not a fitment method. We have been measuring real cars for over twenty years, and every recommendation on this site runs on that data. Every recommended fitment on this site comes from a stock car that someone here put a tape measure, a feeler gauge and a brake caliper impression on.

What does flush actually mean?

Most people want the wheel flush: the face of the wheel sits near or at the fender line without going past it. Robert's working definition is 7mm to 0mm inset from the fender line. Poke, where the wheel sits past the fender, is a look some builds want on purpose. We treat it as a choice you make, not a default.

What do we measure?

• Wheel face to fender line, front and rear, on the stock wheel. That sets how far out we can push a wheel before it pokes.
• Back of the wheel to the closest suspension or body part, with a feeler gauge. That sets how far in a wheel can go. Almost nobody else checks this.
• Tire to bumper and tire to fender at full lock, which we call the turning radius measurement. That sets the tallest tire the front can run.
• Brake caliper and hub impressions: how far the caliper sticks out past the hub, how tall it is, how far the hub protrudes, how tall the hub lip is. This is where most "should fit" wheels fail.

Why is a lower offset never free?

For every inch you move a wheel outward, the tire loses about half an inch of gap to the body. So a lower offset always costs you somewhere. The site does that math for you and only shows offsets and widths inside the window.

What does the site do with all that?

Pick your car once. Every wheel is checked against your bolt pattern, hub bore, brake clearance and the offset and width window for your submodel, front and rear, square and staggered. Anything we have not measured yet says so, and we check those by hand before they ship. Read the fitment guarantee for what we promise.